U.M.S. "oeUlntfton", ot .Suva, ro. oi3. 15th September, VJ36. Your xaellenoy, 1 have the honour to forward the attached reports on the Islands Tlslted by H.Ji.S. "Wellington" from July to September 1936. 2* Painted boards were nailed up in the main hut of Caroline Island and on the flagstaff at Maiden Island, with the following words "This Island belonging to His Britannia Majesty King Sdwerd VIII. was visited by H.M. Ship "Wellington' on (Caroline 22nd Au.ust 1936) (Maiden 27th August Plage were not left, aa there r.&& already a 'nion JaoJt flying at Caroline Island which is at present inhabited by four Tahitiana, and a complete set of flags exists at Maiden Island, 3. rhe labour at iJ'lint and Caroline inlands has, so far, always been recruited from Tahiti, but this year when Mr. Bunkley returned his labourers to Tahiti in June, the drench authorities have forbidden him to reoruit any further drench labour for British islands, in consequence unless he can obtain labourers from other British islands, it would appear that these two islands will shortly be uninhabited. 1936). J.3. Hall (signed and printed). :omm&r.ding Officer. 11 The His xoellenoy The Hi£h Commissioner for the Western Pacific, Suva, Fiji. I 2he reason for this action of the /ranch authorities is not known, but I am of the opinion that they may have designs on these islands and also on Chriatmeu Island, .vnich is the only other British island that 1 am aware of which employs ?ahitian labour. 4. I should liice to draw your attention to the frequent visits of so called American yachts to many of tiiese remote islands, ostensibly for scientific reasons, 5. i should also liice to point out that the reoiarice in the attached reports are L-ioatly impressions obtained from a very short visit to esoh island, and in particular, although a canoe landing io reported, it is quite practicable to ember* copra, and so it should be possible to land supplies, although to land bulty oargo e.g., petrol, etc., would be a long and tedious tasic. I have, e to,, (Sgd.) J.B. H&ll, Commander, R.55. Commander-in-Comaand. A". I {31)* Gontrftl Information. A low atholl 6^ inilso by 4 J miles sparsely planted with ooooenut trees, Had now consists of six Islets instead of eight as two were ihed a.ay in the 19^3 hurrioane. Settlement in good order ana clean. (2). -eported good in fine weather, two cables fro.- reef. (3). Boat Ending. Through narrow and shallow orac* in reef near settlement. (*)• Population. 15 men, 80 women and 60 children, all half caste descendants of J. Vareter3, Manager of the Island, and who appeared fairly ho**lthy and happy, with a well deserved reputation as "cadgers'. t5>» ?r«de. Visited by schooner from r:erotonga about once c year when about 25 tons of copra Is exported. (*>;• :'?_ater. Cisterns from catchment roofs only. (7). ouaplles. r'isn and ooooanuts only. (3). Zommunlqations. Hil. (9). Air Suitability. (a) Lagoon. Very shallow, and useless owing to ooral sand bonks and heads. I*) Oi/on •»» Practicable emergency landing on lee (o) Other roQairensnta. Nil u .. J .. y a.;.^. "¦¦•lUitfftoa" j }. (Cook Groua^ Visited 4th (1) . Qenoral Information, Two Ion islands, li miles apart, covered with coooanut trees, aurrounded by reef, settlement appeared to ba in good order. (2) . Anonorafte. Nil. (3) . Boat Landing. Through narrow and shallow orao* in reei near settlement. (4) . Population. 20 labourer**, 6 women and 7 children, under a half oaate (Carl Maratera), who reported thea healthy and contented. (15) • Trade. Vialted by aohooner from harotunga about every three montha, by which £00 tona of copra la exported annually. >ter, Kll, except catchment roofa. (7) * Supplies. Men and ooooanuta only. (8) . Cotnmunioatlons. Ml. (9) • Air suitability. (R) lagoon. Between islands. 3eep but studded with coral hsoda, sorae of which might be blown up to afford an emergency landing. (b) Often Uea, Inpraotlceble under mout conditions, as swell works round the reef. (o) Other requirements. RtX« r 193$ - Ipq, a e * a.3. "Velllnrton AtM._(Cook Groupi. V^. (1) . general Information. An elevated ooral laland, three alios In diameter, maximum height 394 feet, and well wooded, ettlement In centre of island In very good order and clean. (2) . Anchorage. Nil. (3) . Boat Landing. Through surf and over reef. Difficult and dangerous except In native canoes. (4) . Population. 4 whites and about 900 natives under Resident Agent (Ur. Hempleman). All nativce were healthy and cheerful. (•)• Trade. Schooner froc arotonge visits island fairly frequently except during hurricane season, when about 9000 oases of oranges, a few bananas and tomatoes, and about 150 tons of oopra are exported. (6). atar. j'airly plentiful from wells end tanks. Supplies. 9Uk$ poultry and pig in limited quantities. Prult in goundonee. (8) . Coamunloatlona. */f station. (9) . Air suitability. (*) ssssMsB" (l>> Open Jea. Ueslsan owing to permanent swell. (o) Other requirement a. Ml, but it might be possible to olsar sufficient area in the centre of the inland for a landing ground. •j J h ST. (1). general Information. A low inland covered with ooooanut trees, lying in a North and South direction, 2J- aillaa by 4- mile. Settlement, copra ohodo and old phosphate tra.a-.vay now used for transporting oopra appeared to be in excellent condition. W* Anchorage. Nil. (3) . float landing. TU>at channel. Difficult in any snail. (4) . Population. Uninhabited bat copra labour (15?) only removed in June 1936. (See general remarkB, paragraph 3.) (8). "re.de. formally vieited by nohooner every three months from Tahiti, by which about 120 tons of oopra is exported annually. The island is run, together with Caroline Island, by Mr. Bunxley for Messrs. Maxwell's i*td. (6) . Water. Cisterns froc catchment roofs only. (7) . Supplies. Kish and cocoanuts only. (8) . Coiraunications. Nil. (9) . Air suitability. (a) Lagoon. Nil. (*) MB 1Mb" Useless owing to permanent swell, (c) Other requirements. Nil. (1). General Information. A low atholl 7 miles by 1 mile in the ehape of a orescent, fairly well covered with ooooanut trees. The small uettlemeni on the oouth Island was in excellent oondition end spotlessly clean. (3) . Anchorage. Nil. Boat Landing. Tto canoes. Landing effected in oruoK of reef neur settlement, but this utill entailed wading for a quarter of a mile. (4) . lobulation. At present £ Tahiti on labourers and their wives. About 12 labourers returned to Tahiti in June 1936. (See paragraph 3 of general remarks . (5) . Trade. Normally yisited by schooner every three months by which about 100 tons of copra is exported annually. Ths island is run, together with Flint Island, by Mr. Bunaley for Messrs. Maxwell's Ltd. I6 • fttar, cisterns from catchment roofs, also a well reported on forth Island. Supplies, .-'ish and ooooanuts only. (8) . Communications.. Nil. (9) . Air suitability. (* lagoon. Very shallow and many coral sand shoals rendering it useless for airoraft. (b) Open Sea. Owing to its length and orescent shape, landing in the open sea on ths est Coast Is i^uite feasible in the prevailing winds, but there is no shelter, and no shore landing ground could be made. (o) other requirements. Mil. ____, .. r 1936 - Inoludlng r. (1). General Information. A mall low gueno island, thickly wooded, triangular la shape with sides about a quarter of a mile lony. A bird sanctuary for boobies, frigates and tern. Reported to be overrun with rate and a few very large land crabs. t> • Anonorafte. Probably pooeiblo off western point but very oxposed to swell* (3), Boat hanging. Possible In calm weather in a crack in the reef on the Western aide. (*)• Population* Uninhabited. graest -ass close inside the reef to Cmoko Pisr. Population. About 520, iividsd between villages of Oaoito and Pautua under a half caste esident Agent (v.r. -\ oonton;. Natives appeared contented but not as happy as in other islands, probably due to avorloiousness from the pearl industry. (5). Trads_. Schooner from Rarotongn visits tns island about every three months, «hen pearls and about 50 tons of copra annually are exported, ."ho copre trade could be groatly Increased if the natives were made to work. American yachts frequently visit lenrhyn, four have already visited it in 1936. 16). (6). i&ter. Cetohmem tonka at both settlements, Omoko hoa water supply down main street to pier. Supplies, i-'ieh and cocoanuta only. (9). Cesssttnlontlonj|. Resident has private radio granophona. (9). Air suitability, {*¦) kmfltjft* North est Part of the lagoon woo very patohy with ooral shoals and heads, but it is considered probable that in the middle and toward the South Ittrt straight runs of at lsast one mile oould be found, but the lagoon would have to be properly surveyed before any deoieion la male. (b) Open i>aa. Probably ^uite preotioable on the lee side whichever direction the wind is blowing. Seaplanes oould taxi in by any of -est, North est, or North ast entrances round about slack water. (c) Other requirements. :iil - out it would be quite easy to construct hangars, slipways, etc., at Omoko, where there was observed to be one mile of olear water in a South aoterly direction. Information re possible landir.g ground for lend planes not obtained but islets ore very narrow. o .-- J si iu 1} v ... "galUngto:, (1) . flanaral Inf itfaallagrv A vary low guano island, 3£ railea by about ona mile. Lying in an East and West direction, without any traea or scrub, r.aatarn and frequented by millions of tarn and a few other sou birds. Settlement on astern point is in ruins but beaoon appeared to bo in good condition, Eastern end is ooTered with srecKaee. (2) . Anohorr^a. Kil. (3) , |m Landing* Landing was effected in very oaXm sea juat to the estward of north Cape, but it would be impossible to land anywhere in any aaa or swell. PQPdlation. Uninhabited, liil (9). Air suitability, (a) baaoon. U. ^pen Sea, Unsuitable ac swell s*ings right round the ialand. (o) Other requirements. Xhe oentre of the island is generally flat, and without much la yelling could probably bo easily mado into a landing ground, but it is possible that in heavy rain it may become marshy. (a). General Information. A very low guano 1eland, 4 miles by 3 miles without any trees or scrub, with a brackish lake In the centre. Settlement on 7?eotorn Point, (evacuated in 1926) Is still serviceable but becoming delapidated. r'lagetaff was in good condition, and gantry pier 20 feet high is still intact. There was quite a quantity of stores, including three serviceable surf boats, moorings, lamps, flags and some medical stores. *he old guano tram line could easily be put into serviceable condition, but the distilling plant has deteriorated beyond repair. The ancient temples were searched for, and one found near North est point, but it would require careful excavation by experts to be worth seeing. A burial ground ass found about one mile Kast South ast of settlement, containing many graves, amongst them being the following:- ff. Moolaon, Chief Mate of "Haoar% 1969; K.li. Walker, harfinger lor 4 years, died 19th May 1176? Maiden KcSullough, aged 1 year 4 months, taken by the sea 1 76, and Abraham MoCullough, (rather of above) died 1397, for 23 years manager of the island. (2). Anchorage. Might be possible at western end but strong currents make it dangerous. (*). <3)- float landing. On soft sandy beech about 30 yards North of gantry pier, but .well uakes It difficult. (*)• Population. Uninhabited. (5), Trade. nil, **tsr. None wee found but the presence of domestic pig, gone wild, indicated its presence. i-arge storage well was dry. (9). Air suitability. (a) Lagoon. Lake in the middle of the island is much too shallow and patchy to be of any use. Open oft. Swell too large and nvinge round the island. (o) Other requirements. The ground is extremely rough due to tho extensive guano workings, and would require en impracticable amount of work to make it eervioeable. C t\ 6 £. ty "Vsllln„ton er 1936 - Including report on air suitability. (1) . General Information. A large low lying atholl 9 milee by 5 miles, well planted with ooooanut trees with a lar^e and mostly shallow lagoon. It is administered by an Administrative Officer (Mr. ^eembruggen) whose residence is at the oable station on the Iforth nest ciorner. The settlement for oopra workers is at Boerau, on the Southern Point of the entrance to the lagoon, and was in yery good condition* (2) . Anohoraga. Good open anchorage lor ships of any size is available at haler anchorage, off the oable station. Ships up to about 200 feet drawing less than 13 feet, oan enter the lagoon ana anchor well inside but entering the pass should be djne at slao* high water only, owing to yery strong current and eddies eyen in the calmest weather. (3) . Boat landing. Through a break in the reef and on soft sandy sheltered beach at holer anchorage. There is a pier with about 10 feet of water at baerau alongside which schooners secure. Population. 20 British, 13 Chinese and 75 Gilberteee. (There are also 4 British and 55 Oilbertese working oopra on eehin^ton Island). ;fost of the British and all the Chinese are employees of the Cable Company whose onager la Mr. G. dwarde. (5). (3). Trade, fanning Island Ltd., went into liquidation in 10351 and the oopra is now woriced by Messrs. Burns, | Philp under the name oX /annlng Island Plantations, | Ltd, In the past up to 7000 tons annually hare bssn exported but It Isnot thought that it io as much as that nonf although I have no doubt that the very able Manager (Mr. Gow) fill soon work it up again. (6). 'oter. A fair supply of water from wells and catchments tanks at both haler anchorage and 'uerau. ¦ 7 * Supplies. Only ooooanuts and fish. All supplies are imported from Honolulu, mainly by the American Cable Company's Steamer "Dloklnson", chartered by ths British Cable Company. Schooners frequently call for oopra and the island is occasionally visited by passing steamers and American yachts. (3). 'Communications. Connecting link of the Pacific cable from 3amfield (Canada) to Suva, jmall .v/T station transmitting up to about 300 miles. (9). Air Suitability. (*) Lagoon. The Admiralty chart appears to be correct. A two hour trip In a motor boat proved that there is only two feet of wster any here to the North end -eat of ffi&glieh '{arbour, and I was Informed that the outh and Kastem portion was similar. ?he only j pr est leal landing Is In an ast north "est direction from the entrance of the lagoon for a distance of one mile, and possibly ast South ast for one mils. Q-Psn .Sea. During most of the year it would be quite practicable to land off Whaler anchorage us the swell does not appear to work round the Island. IX the very infrequent Westerly is blowing, landing would be possible on the ast aide but there is no entrance into the lagoon for shslter. (o) (o) Other requirements. Sheds and slipway* oould easily bo constructed, either at ffhaler anchorage or at Baerau, a small amount of blasting coral wouli be require! at the former, ooring buoys for aircraft could •asily be laid at heler anchorage. A shore landing ground, about two miles long In an Vest and -7est direction, and about half a nils broad could probably be made on the southern side at Peso, but would require considerable drainage to make it practicable after rains. A resident reported that this land had once been flooded by the tide In the last twelve years. (10.) /ina:iCial. 'I'he heavy duty oharges on imports, especially foodstuffs, ia auoh discussed by the British population, also tne incongruous situation whereby they have New Zealand stamps, Australian currency, and most of their imports have to be paid in either sterling or dollars. (X)- General Indorsation. An extremely large atholl 14 ciles by 12 raileo, with a tongue 17 miles by 0 uiilea extending to the -eat South aat, with & lagoon on the Western side, ana many lakes* Coooanut trees hare boon planted on the Rorth and eat aider,, too remaining land la mainly covered with eorub. The entrance to the lagoon is on the eeteru cotiat, the settlement London is on the Northern alia, and that of Paris, now uninhabited, on the Southern side of the entrance. The settlement *as clean and tidy and the labourers happy andwell loolced after. The island is owned by one. Rougler, a frenchman, who is very much at loggerheads with the French authorities at Tahiti, and he says he ia trying to lease tho island to Messrs. Burns, rhllp Ltd., and to give up his French nationality and become a naturalised Englishman or American. :iis manager, who is at present in charge, is an extremely nice and capable Caeoho Sloraiiiau, ; lagoon. A three hour trip in a motor boat revealed thnt the whole of the lagoon Worth and 5aat of London has only about two feet of water, rurther South and aot of Paris there are many lanes of about li miles lon>;, about 16 feet deep, running in several directions, and IX properly surveyed it is considered probable that good landing and taking off stretohee oould be found. (b) Open Sea. uite practicable anywhere in the bay on the weet side as the swell does not worit round the island, but not advisable to land on the astern side (Bay of Wrecks) owing to strong current which alv/ays aeta to the •ostward, and there is absolutely no shelter. (o) otner requirements. It would be difficult to construct .slipways or sheds at London but probably eaoler at Paris. Mooring buoys lor seaplaneo could be laid outside the reef at London and also inside the lagoon. It is considered that a £00d landing ground about two miles square oould fairly easily be made on the North fringe. It would mean cutting down a fee aocoanut trees and not nuoh levelling and there are no obstructions in any i direct io*V ¦J____J - . ¦¦. i1. Jute to orrttrafrer UM - blaiiM anH 1 ate tuiUfriU.tx- "IiH, Jarrle Island. H.M.3. "Wellington" passed Jarris Island at a distance of 3-V miles at 0730, Saturday 3th Septeabor 1936, the American eaolgn was hoisted on a flagstaff erected on the beacon as soon as the ship was sighted. It is a very loft guano island, l£ miles by ± mile, *ith no trees or scrub. Two new houses had been ereetea close to the beacon, and two ff/T poles 30 feet high were seen olose to the houses. Trigonometrical beacons had been erected, one on North Coast, one on South Coast, and one on the iouth estern point, the latter appeared to have an aneao:*eter. The landing place appeared to be close to the oeacon on soft coral sand, whore two gentle slopes hid been out in the bank leading up to the houses. Three inhabitants were observed. B C h & T. y :i-.....¦ "¦.oUl.v:tou" Visited Stn ¦¦e/wc-.ber rJ3".. (1) . Oenerol Inforctiatlon. A low etholl 4 miles by 2 miles, consisting of thres islets, well planted -ith ooooanuts surrounding a triangular lagoon which is studded with coral shoals and pinnacles. A long sandy spit extends for three miles to the westward. The only settlement i on PuJce Puka Island, and was in excellent condition, the natives appearing to be very happy and contented. It is run by a Resident Agent (Mr. 0. Henry) who was absent at Apia owing to serious illnsas of his nlfe. I was shewn round by an American essay writer, tfr. R. r'risbie, who apparently spends most of his life here. (2) . Anchorage. Kil. Host Landing. Difficult and very shallow, land in native canoes over a reef. («)• Population. 051 and increasing rapidly. (5) .Trade. About 150 tons of copra annually exported by occasional schooner to Apia or aroton^a. (6) . Water. Large catchment tanks only. Supplies. Fish, ooooanuts and good taro fields. O). vQ—uni oat ions. Vili (9). Air suitability. (a) Laaoon. Only posslbls in extreme emergency. (*) Open -iea. Impracticable unless exceptionally calm, as swell works round island. (•) Other requirements. Ill* - - - •¦¦ - * (1) . General Information, A large low atholl 7 miles by 6 miles, with a large and fairly deep lagoon. It lies approximately 4 milea to the Eastward of lta oharted position, and la well planted with ooooanuts. The only aettleraent ia on the large South ffeat islet and was in exoellont condition, a large otaan Catholic ohuroh huo been built but not yet completed. The natives were moat hospitable, happy, and in excellent health, especially the children. (2) . Anohora^o,. Nil. (3) . Boat ->andlng. Oyer the reef in native boata or oanoea only* onuliitlon. 250. There is no white man, the island being run by a native y'alpule. (5) . Trade. About 200 tono of oopra annually by schooner about four times a year to Apia, (6) . *cter. Very large and modern catchment tallica. (7) * tBs^LsasV f loh and ooooanuts only. An effort ia being made to grow bananaa. (8) . Oopraunloiitioiia. ftl« <9). Air suitability. (*) seMtfsV 'fnia lagoon gave the appearance oi being the moat aultable of any visited during this cruise. It was obviously over two fathoms deep for most of the area and did not appear to have nearly aa many coral sand banka or pinnacles. It should be quite eaay to obtain a run of two milea In any direction with no obstaclea at either end. (b). (b) Open Sea. Probably quite practicable on the lee aide, but awell Is apt to s«in£ round the Southern end to the settlement - there is, however, no entrance to the la^o^.n. (•) vther rcgulraoiants.. iih.edu end alipwaya oould "easily be constructed on the lagoon aide of any of the islets.